WA & OR · GUIDE

How to remove tree roots after the tree is gone (and when to leave them)

Most roots left behind when a tree comes down can stay where they are and rot. Dig them out only where you need the space, for a patio, a footing or a planting bed, and request an 811 locate before digging deeper than 12 inches. Cottonwood, aspen and black locust are the exceptions: their roots keep sending up shoots.

Researched by Westcoast-Tree.org · Checked 2026-10-02 · Sources at the end

Short answer

To remove tree roots after the tree is gone, grind the stump and any surface roots, then dig and saw out roots only where you need the space, after an 811 locate. Elsewhere, leave them to rot. Douglas fir roots will not regrow, but cottonwood, aspen and black locust can sucker from roots left in the ground; those shoots need repeated cutting or a labeled herbicide.

What happens to tree roots after the tree is cut down?

A stump grinder takes out the stump and the top of the root flare and leaves the side roots in the soil to decay, which is normal practice; the hub on stump grinding in Washington and Oregon covers the grind itself, the grindings and replanting. This page is about everything left underneath.

There is more of it than people expect. Oregon State University Extension says most of a tree’s roots are in the top 18 inches of soil, and the International Society of Arboriculture says roots commonly spread many times the width of the crown and can reach farther out than the tree was tall. A root you hit while digging a bed 30 feet from the old trunk can still be from that tree.

Where roots run after a tree is cut, and the zone to protect around a tree you keep Left: the stump of a removed tree with roots spreading wide and shallow, mostly in the top 18 inches of soil, with a few shoots rising from a root, as aspen and cottonwood do. A dashed line at 12 inches marks where owner digging needs an 811 locate. Right: a living tree with a protection zone measured out from the trunk, 1 foot per inch of trunk diameter by the OSU and ISA rule, or 1.5 feet per inch by the Forest Service’s critical root radius. Not to scale. Tree gone: roots stay and rot Some species sucker from them Tree you keep Protection zone: 1 ft per inch of trunk (OSU, ISA) or 1.5 ft per inch (USDA FS) 12 in deep: below this, request an 811 locate 18 in deep: most roots are above this (OSU)
Not to scale. Root depth from OSU Extension EM 8994; protection zones from OSU (citing ISA) and the USDA Forest Service’s critical root radius; 12-inch owner exemption from RCW 19.122.031 and Oregon’s OAR 952-001-0050.

Dead roots in moist soil are what decay fungi need: the Forest Service’s Wood Handbook says serious decay happens only in wood wetter than about 30 percent moisture, and wood kept air dry does not decay. Big conifer roots go slowly, and some carry disease. The Oregon Department of Forestry says the laminated root rot fungus can survive for decades in large old stumps or roots and infects new trees whose roots touch them; on those sites it advises removing the stumps and roots before replanting a susceptible conifer, or planting resistant conifers or immune hardwoods instead.

An old, weathered stump with a hollowed centre and exposed roots at its base, standing on bare ground among trees
Years after a tree comes down, the stump and its main roots are still there, slowly rotting. Photo: aranprime / Unsplash

Will tree roots grow back? The species that sucker

For a Douglas fir, no: the Forest Service’s silvics manual says Douglas fir does not naturally reproduce vegetatively, so its roots simply die. For some broadleaf trees, the roots are the whole problem. In quaking aspen, the Forest Service’s species review explains that the stem sends a hormone down that holds root buds back; cut the stem and the buds grow. It reports 20,000 to 30,000 suckers per acre as typical in aspen stands the first year after the top is killed, and in a Utah and Wyoming study it cites, 70 percent of suckers came from roots within about 3 inches of the surface.

TreeWhat comes back after cuttingSourceUSDA status
Quaking aspenRoot suckers, often thousands per acreUSDA FEISNative
Black cottonwoodRoot suckers and stump sproutsUSDA FEISNative
Black locustSprouts from roots or stump, often in response to cuttingUSDA FEISEastern U.S. native; planted here
Tree of heavenCrown and side roots; cutting can thicken the standKing CountyIntroduced
Cherry laurelRoot suckers and cut stemsKing CountyIntroduced
Bigleaf mapleRoot crown and stump; the review describes no root suckersUSDA FEISNative
Red alderSprouts at the root collar, mostly on young trees; rare after 15 yearsUSDA FEISNative
Douglas-firNothing; no natural vegetative reproductionUSDA silvics manualNative

Sources: USDA Forest Service Fire Effects Information System species reviews; Silvics of North America; King County Noxious Weed Control Program; checked 2026-10-02. USDA status is the national nativity field in the Forest Service’s FIADB plant reference records, where every species listed is recorded in both Washington and Oregon; for black locust, the FEIS review places its native range in the eastern U.S. and notes planted groves spreading into old fields in eastern Washington.

If the tree was a sucker species, removing the stump does not end it, and shoots can come up across the lawn. King County’s advice for laurel is to dig out the stump with as much root as possible and keep cutting new shoots. Bigleaf maple is different: it comes back from the root crown, so grinding below the crown matters more than chasing its roots; how to remove a tree stump compares the ways to deal with the crown itself.

Your options: leave the roots, grind them, dig them or kill the suckers

OptionWhen it fitsWhat it involvesWatch for
Leave them to rotLawn and beds away from the old trunk; most yardsNothing; the roots decay in moist soilRoot rot sites: ODF’s advice on stumps and roots before replanting a conifer
Grind surface rootsRoots that trip mowers or lift a walkThe grinder follows the root along its length; quoted by the foot or hourA separate line from the stump grind; not priced by the site’s model
Dig and cutA patio, footing, fence line or new planting bedLocate, expose, saw, lever out, backfill with soilNever use grindings or wood chips as backfill (WSU)
Kill the suckersAspen, cottonwood, locust, laurel, tree of heavenCut shoots repeatedly, or a herbicide labeled for the jobSome herbicides can move through root grafts to same-species trees (PNW handbook)

Sources: Oregon Department of Forestry; WSU Puyallup, Wood chip mulch; Pacific Northwest Weed Management Handbook; King County Noxious Weed Control Program; checked 2026-10-02.

Grinding along surface roots is the add-on the stump grinding cost page calls root chasing: worth it where roots lift a walk, a waste where they will rot under the grass. For suckers, King County’s laurel guidance shows what persistence looks like: cut new stems regularly through the growing season, over several years. A herbicide shortens that only if its label covers the use; “the label is the law,” as EPA puts it, and how to kill a tree stump covers products and timing. A stump remover will not help here; it is made for dead wood, as stump remover chemicals explains.

Roots in the way?

Root grinding and “root chasing” are add-ons most stump crews price separately. Call the number on this page to have roots ground out with the stump.

Call for a local estimate(877) 720-7431

How to dig out tree roots

Dig only where the roots are in the way, and start with the paperwork. In both states, owner digging is exempt from the locate law only when it stays less than 12 inches deep (RCW 19.122.031 in Washington; OAR 952-001-0050 in Oregon), and digging out roots usually goes deeper than that.

  1. Request the locateCall 811 at least two full business days ahead (Washington allows up to 10; Oregon’s center asks for no more than 10), and hand-dig near the marks.
  2. Expose the rootShovel along it and wash the soil off with a hose so you can see where it runs and how thick it is.
  3. Check where it leadsIf it runs toward a living tree you want to keep, stop and read the next section before cutting anything over 4 inches thick.
  4. Cut it cleanlyUse a pruning saw, loppers or the blade of a mattock; OSU’s guidance is sharp, clean cuts.
  5. Lever it outPry the cut section free with a digging bar and keep following it until the space you need is clear.
  6. Backfill with soilNot chips or grindings: WSU’s Linda Chalker-Scott writes that wood mulch should never be used as backfill.

How deep to go depends on what goes on top. For building or paving over an old stump, Family Handyman’s rule is to take the wood out as deep as the stump was wide; the person designing the patio or footing should confirm what the base needs. After a grind, the same logic applies to the grindings: rake them out of a spot you want to replant and use them as mulch elsewhere. The difference between grinding and pulling the whole root ball is laid out in stump removal vs grinding.

Protecting the roots of trees you keep

Cutting a dead tree’s roots is a cleanup job. Cutting a living tree’s roots can make it fall over. OSU Extension, following ISA, sets a tree’s critical root zone at 1 foot of radius for every inch of trunk diameter measured at 4.5 feet, says about 85 percent of the root mass sits inside it, and says not to cut roots more than 4 inches thick because they are structural. For utility lines, OSU says to tunnel at least 18 inches under that zone rather than trench through it.

Critical root zone1 ft

Per inch of trunk (OSU, ISA)

Critical root radius1.5 ft

Per inch of trunk (USDA FS)

Root damage limit40%

Before anchoring is seriously impaired (USDA FS)

Structural roots4 in+

Do not cut (OSU)

The Forest Service’s tree risk manual uses a wider circle, 1.5 feet per inch of trunk diameter, and says up to 40 percent of the roots inside it can be damaged before the tree’s anchoring is seriously impaired, less for sensitive species. For a maple 20 inches thick at chest height next to the old stump, that puts the zone to keep cuts out of at 20 to 30 feet from its trunk. ISA’s construction brochure adds the practical step: an arborist can prune roots out of the way before excavation, or cut them cleanly before anything tears them. Surface roots of trees you keep are a separate topic, covered in tree roots above ground.

A black-and-white photo of a large uprooted tree lying beside two buildings, with its root plate exposed and broken branches and debris on the ground
An uprooted tree shows how wide and shallow a root plate is; the roots inside that plate are what hold a standing tree up. Photo: Karthik Chandran / Unsplash

Permits for cutting roots

Portland’s tree code applies its technical specifications to all regulated trees in the city (PCC 11.60.010). Root cutting must follow proper arboricultural practice with clean, sharp tools, and no tree may be excessively pruned (PCC 11.60.040); the code’s definitions count removing 25 percent or more of the functioning root area in one growing season as excessive pruning, and trenching or excavating inside the root protection zone, 1 foot per inch of diameter, as injury (PCC 11.80.020). Street trees need a city pruning permit, Portland issues a separate street tree root pruning permit, and its guidance says root pruning should be done only by professional arborists or after consulting a City arborist.

In Seattle, paid work that prunes or removes live roots 2 inches or more in diameter is “reportable work” under the tree protection code, SMC 25.11; a registered tree service provider must post a public notice on SDCI’s website at least three full business days before starting. Other cities are listed in tree removal permits in Washington and tree removal permits in Oregon. Roots that belong to a neighbor’s tree raise property questions too; see Washington neighbor tree law or Oregon neighbor tree law. Not legal advice.

Do tree roots break sewer pipes and foundations?

In ISA’s account, roots get into pipes that already leak. Its utility brochure says new steel and PVC water and sewer lines are generally resistant to root damage, while older cement, clay or cast-iron pipes can degrade and leak; the moisture draws roots in, and they widen the cracks. Removing roots from the yard does not repair the pipe.

Who owns the sewer lateral, what cities require for sidewalk heave and what is known about foundations are covered in tree root damage on your property; this page does not repeat them.

Questions people ask

Do tree roots die after a tree is cut down?

A Douglas fir’s roots do; the species does not reproduce vegetatively. Quaking aspen, black cottonwood, black locust, tree of heaven and cherry laurel can keep sending up shoots from roots left in the ground.

Will roots grow back after stump grinding?

A grind deep enough to take out the root crown ends crown sprouts on species like bigleaf maple. Sucker species can still send shoots up from the side roots, which need cutting or a labeled herbicide.

How long do tree roots take to rot?

We found no published figure for roots alone. Lowe’s puts whole stumps at 3 to 15 years, and the Oregon Department of Forestry says the laminated root rot fungus can survive for decades in large old stumps or roots.

Do I need a permit to cut tree roots?

Sometimes. Portland regulates root cutting on regulated trees and street trees, and Seattle treats paid pruning or removal of live roots 2 inches or larger as reportable work. Check your city before cutting near a tree you keep.

Can I cut my neighbor’s tree roots?

Be careful. Washington (RCW 64.12.030) and Oregon (ORS 105.810) both provide treble damages for injuring trees on someone else’s land without lawful authority; the neighbor tree law pages explain where self-help ends. Not legal advice.

What is root grinding?

A stump grinder following a surface root along its length to take it below grade, sometimes called root chasing. Crews quote it separately from the stump, by the foot or the hour.

Sources

  1. USDA Forest Service, Fire Effects Information System species reviews: quaking aspen, black cottonwood, black locust, bigleaf maple, red alder, checked 2026-10-02.
  2. USDA Forest Service, Silvics of North America: Douglas-fir, checked 2026-10-02.
  3. King County Noxious Weed Control Program: Tree-of-heaven and Cherry laurel, checked 2026-10-02.
  4. USDA Forest Service, FIADB reference tables, plant records (nativity and state distribution), checked 2026-10-02.
  5. Oregon State University Extension, EM 8994 Protecting trees on construction and development sites (reviewed 2023), checked 2026-10-02.
  6. USDA Forest Service, Urban Tree Risk Management (NA-TP-03-03), critical root radius, checked 2026-10-02.
  7. International Society of Arboriculture, TreesAreGood: Avoiding tree damage during construction and Avoiding tree and utility conflicts, checked 2026-10-02.
  8. USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory, Wood Handbook chapter 14: Biodeterioration of wood, checked 2026-10-02.
  9. Oregon Department of Forestry, Laminated root rot fact sheet, checked 2026-10-02.
  10. Linda Chalker-Scott, WSU Puyallup, Wood chip mulch: landscape boon or bane?, checked 2026-10-02.
  11. Family Handyman, How to remove a tree stump with a grinder (updated March 20, 2019), checked 2026-10-02.
  12. Lowe’s, How to remove a tree stump (updated March 10, 2026), checked 2026-10-02.
  13. Portland City Code: 11.60.010, 11.60.040 Tree pruning and root cutting specifications and 11.80.020 Definitions, checked 2026-10-02.
  14. City of Portland Urban Forestry: How to root prune properly and How to prune properly (street tree pruning permits), checked 2026-10-02.
  15. Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections, Trees and codes (SMC 25.11; reportable work), checked 2026-10-02.
  16. RCW 19.122.030, Notice of excavation and RCW 19.122.031, Exemptions, checked 2026-10-02.
  17. Oregon Utility Notification Center, FAQ (OAR 952-001-0050), checked 2026-10-02.
  18. Pacific Northwest Weed Management Handbook, Treatments for tree stem injection, hack and squirt, and cut stump, checked 2026-10-02.
  19. U.S. EPA, Introduction to pesticide labels, checked 2026-10-02.
  20. RCW 64.12.030, Injury to or removing trees and ORS 105.810, Treble damages for injury to or removal of trees, checked 2026-10-02.

Comparing quotes? Check these eight things first.

Two quotes for the same tree can differ by thousands. The gap is usually in what's included, not the cutting.

01A current certificate of liability insurance, sent by the insurer
02A state license you looked up yourself: Oregon CCB or LCB, Washington L&I
03Who is on site: an ISA Certified Arborist, or a crew lead with years on the job
04Haul-away, chipping and cleanup written in, not assumed
05The stump: ground, left, or priced as a separate line
06Who pulls the city permit, and whether the fee is in the price
07What happens if a fence, roof or lawn gets damaged
08Your written approval before any extra work is added
Check any company yourself

We don't vet or license anyone. These are the official lookups; each takes about a minute.

WhatWhereWhat it shows
Oregon CCB licenseCCB license searchActive status, bond, insurance on file, complaints
Oregon LCB licenseLCB verify a licenseLandscape contracting license, which covers tree work
Washington contractor registrationL&I VerifyRegistration, bond, workers' comp, lawsuits, violations
ISA Certified ArboristISA directoryCurrent certification and credential number

How to read them: Oregon guide · Washington guide

Check any company yourself

We don't vet or license anyone. These are the official lookups; each takes about a minute.

WhatWhereWhat it shows
Oregon CCB licenseCCB license searchActive status, bond, insurance on file, complaints
Oregon LCB licenseLCB verify a licenseLandscape contracting license, which covers tree work
Washington contractor registrationL&I VerifyRegistration, bond, workers' comp, lawsuits, violations
ISA Certified ArboristISA directoryCurrent certification and credential number

How to read them: Oregon guide · Washington guide

Westcoast-Tree.org is an independent information site. If you call a number on this site, the call goes to a tree service that covers your area and we may be paid a referral fee by that company. We don't perform tree work and we don't vet, license or insure anyone. Cost figures are modeled estimates, not quotes (method). Not affiliated with the former Westcoast Tree Care Inc of Tumwater, WA.

Call for a local estimate(877) 720-7431