How to remove a tree stump: 5 ways compared for Washington and Oregon yards
There are five ways to get rid of a tree stump: dig it out, grind it, let it rot, kill it first if it sprouts, or burn it, and burning is off the table in most Northwest cities. Digging suits small stumps. For anything bigger, grinding takes the stump below ground in one visit, modeled at $4–$6 per inch of diameter with a $150 minimum (modeled estimate, not quotes; method).
To remove a tree stump yourself, request an 811 locate two business days ahead, dig around it with a mattock and shovel, saw through the side roots and rock it loose. That is practical for small stumps. Larger ones are usually ground below grade in one visit. Letting a stump rot takes 3 to 15 years, and burning is banned or restricted in most Washington and Oregon cities.
How to remove a tree stump: five ways compared
Every stump comes down to the same five choices, and the right one depends on the stump’s size, its species and what you want to do with the spot. If you would rather pay for one visit than spend a weekend with a shovel, the hub page on stump grinding in Washington and Oregon covers grinding depth, the grindings and replanting.
If a footing, patio or new tree is going exactly where the old one stood, the roots matter as much as the stump; stump removal vs grinding explains when the whole root ball has to come out. The table compares the five ways for a typical yard stump.
| Method | Works best for | Until it is gone | Your effort | Sprouts afterward? | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dig it out by hand | Small stumps with roots you can reach | When the digging is done | Heavy: mattock, digging bar, shovel, saw | Root crown is gone; root suckers can still come up on cottonwood or laurel | Tools you own |
| Grind it, hired | Any stump a machine can reach | One visit | None | Crown ground out; side roots stay to rot | Modeled $4–$6 per inch, $150 minimum |
| Grind it, rented | A long list of stumps, a vehicle that can tow | A day | Heavy: you tow and run the machine | Same as hired | A day rental; see rental rates |
| Let it rot | A dead stump in a spot you can ignore | 3–15 years naturally; several months or longer with a stump remover | Light | Rotting does nothing to a living stump | Low |
| Kill it first | A fresh cut on bigleaf maple, cottonwood or laurel | Herbicide right after the cut, then rot or grind | Light, with a labeled product | That is the point; follow-up cutting is common | Low |
| Burn it | Rural land where burning is allowed at all | Not covered here | Not covered here | Not covered here | Banned in Washington urban growth areas (WAC 173-425-040) |
Sources: Lowe’s stump guide (natural decay 3–15 years; chemical removal several months or longer); King County Noxious Weed Control Program (laurel suckers, follow-up cutting); WAC 173-425-040 (burning); grinding price is a modeled estimate, not quotes (method); checked 2026-10-02.
Call 811 before you dig out or grind a stump
Digging out a stump goes far deeper than planting a flower bed, and both states require a utility locate before that kind of digging. The request is free, Washington’s Utilities and Transportation Commission says, and once the lines are marked it says to use only small hand tools within 2 feet of the marks.
Mark the dig area in white, then give notice at least two and no more than 10 full business days before digging
RCW 19.122.030(1) and (2). The only homeowner exemption is digging less than 12 inches deep on private noncommercial property by the owner or occupant (RCW 19.122.031). Call 811 or 1-800-424-5555 · Checked 2026-10-02. Read the statute
Notify the Oregon Utility Notification Center at least two full business days, and no more than 10, before digging
Homeowners are exempt only when digging less than 12 inches deep on their own property and outside any easement (OAR 952-001-0050, per the Center’s FAQ). Call 811 or 1-800-332-2344 · Checked 2026-10-02. Read the FAQ
The Oregon center’s FAQ counts planting a tree as excavation, so pulling a stump certainly is. It also says most utilities locate only to their meter or the connection point of your private service, so irrigation lines, garden lighting and a feed to a shed are yours to find. Not legal advice.
How to dig out a tree stump by hand
Be honest with yourself about size before you start. Lowe’s calls hand removal “most practical for smaller stumps with manageable root systems” and gives no cutoff, and no extension source we checked offers one either. King County’s weed program, describing laurel stumps, says digging them out with as much root as possible will be labor intensive.
Two facts set the practical limit. Roots run wide and shallow: Oregon State University Extension says most of a tree’s roots are in the top 18 inches of soil, and the International Society of Arboriculture says they commonly spread many times the width of the crown. And the alternative has a floor: any stump up to 24 inches across models at the $150 grinding minimum (modeled estimate, not quotes; method), so digging pays off mainly on small stumps or where you need the roots out anyway.
- Mattock and digging bar: loosen the soil around the stump and pry against roots.
- Shovel: clear the loosened soil to expose the root flare.
- Pruning saw or bow saw: cut the side roots; a mattock’s blade end works on small ones.
- Garden hose: Lowe’s suggests washing soil off so you can see where roots run.
- Get the locate firstFile the 811 request and wait for the marks, then hand-dig carefully near any of them.
- Dig a trench around the stumpLoosen the soil with the mattock and digging bar and shovel it out until the top of the root flare shows.
- Expose the rootsKeep digging and wash the soil away so you can see each side root where it leaves the stump.
- Cut the side rootsSaw or chop through each one, working around the stump.
- Undercut the root massDig beneath the stump and cut the roots that go down. Douglas fir starts out with a taproot, the Forest Service’s silvics manual says, though boulders or bedrock near the surface make it branch early.
- Rock it loose and liftLowe’s last step is rocking the stump back and forth to loosen it, then lifting it out.
- Fill the hole with soilBackfill with soil rather than wood chips; WSU Extension’s Linda Chalker-Scott writes that wood mulch should never be used as backfill.
Pulling it out with a truck, chain or winch
Lowe’s mentions a helper, a rope or a vehicle for larger stumps but gives no method or safety limits, and we found no safety agency or extension guide that covers pulling stumps with a car, pickup or winch. This guide does not give instructions for it. A stump that will not rock free after its side roots are cut needs more digging, or a grinder.
Grinding: the fastest way to remove a stump
For anything past a small stump, grinding is the fastest route to no stump at all. A machine with a toothed wheel chews the stump into chips below the soil line and leaves the side roots in the ground to decay. Family Handyman’s walkthrough grinds 6 to 10 inches below grade for a lawn and says a 20-inch oak stump usually takes about 45 minutes; where you will build or pave, it says to go as deep as the stump is wide.
The modeled minimum
Mature maple or cedar
Large Douglas fir
Multi-stem clump
Stump diameter at the ground, flare included. Modeled estimate, not quotes: $4–$6 per inch, $150 minimum per visit (method).

Renting is the other way to grind. It can make sense for a long list of stumps if you can tow the machine and are comfortable running it; the posted day rates, the machine classes and the break-even math are in stump grinder rental. Grinding to a stated depth, chasing surface roots and hauling the grindings are separate lines on a quote, as the stump grinding cost page explains.
Grinding is the one-visit answer for a big stump. To get a stump ground or dug out, call the number on this page. Have the diameter at the ground and your city ready.
Call for a local estimate(877) 720-7431Which stumps sprout back, and why it changes the method
A freshly cut hardwood stump can still be alive. Rotting it, or soaking it in stump remover, does nothing to a living root system, so the species decides the first step. How to kill a tree stump covers the herbicide side in full, and with any herbicide, “the label is the law,” as EPA puts it. Here is what each common Northwest stump does.
- Bigleaf maple: sprouts from the root crown or stump after cutting; sprouts can reach 10 feet in a year, and one root crown has carried as many as 67 of them, the Forest Service’s species review says. Kill it, or grind below the crown.
- Red alder: sprouting is strongest on trees 1 to 3 years old and falls off sharply after 15; trees 15 or older rarely have live sprouts two years after cutting, the Forest Service’s alder review says. A stump from an older alder seldom comes back.
- Black cottonwood: regenerates by root suckers and stump sprouts, so new shoots can come up across the lawn after the stump is ground. See how to remove tree roots for suckers.
- Cherry laurel: King County says it suckers from the roots and resprouts from cut stems; dig the stump with as much root as possible, or treat it right after cutting.
- Douglas fir: does not naturally reproduce vegetatively, per the Forest Service’s silvics manual. A fir stump will not sprout.
Letting it rot, and why burning is off the table
Doing nothing is a method, a slow one. Lowe’s puts natural decay at 3 to 15 years depending on the species, the stump’s size and the climate; its faster route drills holes in the stump, adds a stump remover and water, and keeps the stump covered with a tarp. A stump remover can shorten that for a dead, seasoned stump, but Bonide’s label asks you to season a fresh stump for at least a year (18 months for a large one) before using its product. What each remover is, how long the labels say it takes and what Epsom salt really does are on stump remover chemicals.
Burning a stump out is the method this guide does not cover. Washington has banned residential and land-clearing burning in urban growth areas and in cities over 10,000 people since the end of 2000 (WAC 173-425-040). Oregon DEQ says bans depend on where you live, and cities, counties and fire districts add their own. Check Washington yard debris burning rules or Oregon yard debris burning rules before anything is lit.
Questions people ask
What is the fastest way to remove a tree stump?
Grinding. It takes the stump below grade in one visit; Family Handyman says a 20-inch oak stump usually takes about 45 minutes. Digging out a small stump is slower, and rotting takes years.
Can I remove a stump myself without a grinder?
Yes, if it is small enough that you can reach every side root: dig around it, cut the roots with a saw or mattock and rock it loose. Request an 811 locate first, because you will dig deeper than 12 inches.
Do I need to call 811 to dig out a stump?
In practice, yes. Both Washington and Oregon exempt only owner digging less than 12 inches deep, and both want at least two full business days’ notice. The locate is free.
How much does it cost to have a stump removed?
The site models grinding at $4–$6 per inch of diameter at the ground with a $150 minimum per visit, so most single stumps model at $150–$450 (modeled estimate, not quotes; method). Digging out the whole root ball is a different, larger job.
Will a tree stump grow back after it is removed?
A stump of Douglas fir will not. Bigleaf maple sprouts from the root crown, so it must come out or be ground below it; cottonwood and laurel can keep sending up shoots from roots left in the ground.
Can I burn out a stump?
Not in Washington’s urban growth areas or cities over 10,000 people, and in Oregon it depends on your county, city and fire district. Check the burning rules for your area first.
Sources
- Lowe’s, How to remove a tree stump (updated March 10, 2026), checked 2026-10-02.
- Family Handyman, How to remove a tree stump with a grinder (updated March 20, 2019), checked 2026-10-02.
- RCW 19.122.030, Notice of excavation, checked 2026-10-02.
- RCW 19.122.031, Exemptions, checked 2026-10-02.
- Washington Utilities and Transportation Commission, Call before you dig, checked 2026-10-02.
- Oregon Utility Notification Center, FAQ (OAR 952-001-0050 homeowner exemption), checked 2026-10-02.
- Oregon State University Extension, EM 8994 Protecting trees on construction and development sites (reviewed 2023), checked 2026-10-02.
- International Society of Arboriculture, TreesAreGood: Avoiding tree and utility conflicts, checked 2026-10-02.
- King County Noxious Weed Control Program, Cherry laurel, checked 2026-10-02.
- Linda Chalker-Scott, WSU Puyallup, Wood chip mulch: landscape boon or bane?, checked 2026-10-02.
- USDA Forest Service, Fire Effects Information System: Acer macrophyllum (bigleaf maple), checked 2026-10-02.
- USDA Forest Service, Fire Effects Information System: Alnus rubra (red alder), checked 2026-10-02.
- USDA Forest Service, Fire Effects Information System: black cottonwood, checked 2026-10-02.
- USDA Forest Service, Silvics of North America: Douglas-fir (vegetative reproduction, rooting habit), checked 2026-10-02.
- Bonide, Stump-Out product label, checked 2026-10-02.
- U.S. EPA, Introduction to pesticide labels, checked 2026-10-02.
- WAC 173-425-040, Outdoor burning prohibitions, checked 2026-10-02.
- Oregon Department of Environmental Quality, Outdoor and open burning, checked 2026-10-02.
Comparing quotes? Check these eight things first.
Two quotes for the same tree can differ by thousands. The gap is usually in what's included, not the cutting.
We don't vet or license anyone. These are the official lookups; each takes about a minute.
| What | Where | What it shows |
|---|---|---|
| Oregon CCB license | CCB license search | Active status, bond, insurance on file, complaints |
| Oregon LCB license | LCB verify a license | Landscape contracting license, which covers tree work |
| Washington contractor registration | L&I Verify | Registration, bond, workers' comp, lawsuits, violations |
| ISA Certified Arborist | ISA directory | Current certification and credential number |
How to read them: Oregon guide · Washington guide
We don't vet or license anyone. These are the official lookups; each takes about a minute.
| What | Where | What it shows |
|---|---|---|
| Oregon CCB license | CCB license search | Active status, bond, insurance on file, complaints |
| Oregon LCB license | LCB verify a license | Landscape contracting license, which covers tree work |
| Washington contractor registration | L&I Verify | Registration, bond, workers' comp, lawsuits, violations |
| ISA Certified Arborist | ISA directory | Current certification and credential number |
How to read them: Oregon guide · Washington guide
Westcoast-Tree.org is an independent information site. If you call a number on this site, the call goes to a tree service that covers your area and we may be paid a referral fee by that company. We don't perform tree work and we don't vet, license or insure anyone. Cost figures are modeled estimates, not quotes (method). Not affiliated with the former Westcoast Tree Care Inc of Tumwater, WA.